Angourie, yesterday, Friday 25 June, 2009 – Image by Kim Satchell.
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Tell us a story Satch!
Don’t just leave us wondering. Was it as good as it looks? How’d your board go? You get many barrels? Get punched by Nat?
C’mon brother!
I’m betting the inside paddler snakes it
sportsbabel likes this.
droollingly perfect . . .
Do you know how it is here at the moment!?!
B@st@rds!!!
Niegà
Wow Kim!
You certainly weren’t embellishing your description!! No wonder you were so stoked.
What a gem of a drive home.
I remember Clif talking about how much he likes those pics that are taken just as the surfer is about to take off: not necessarily a crazy snap, or grabbing rail whilst deep inside a tube. But that point where anything could happen: the surfer flies down the face on a slither of rail just hanging on, or charges straight down and pulls a massive bottom turn to stall straight into the barrel, or gets completely pitched by the lip, or even decides to go right at a left. It’s all possible!
And that is what I love about this photo… The wave about to break is just screaming potential and I’m sitting here mind surfing it and wondering what I would do and how I’d handle. Probably nothing too gracefull I’m guessing, but just looking at this pic is getting me real excited!
short site report (sorry for the tardiness of response)
-from the office of climate readiness.
any prolonged study of line-ups draws attention to the curious recurring phenomenon, I call deference, which allows the first wave of a set to go unridden. in the image above, the cause appears obvious, with a small, but frothing crew positioning themselves in the path of moving corrigation, waves ascending in order as a crescendo in music. punters mindful of not being caught inside, as well as, prescribing to the notion of bigger is better.
some surfers, in the curious mobile architecture of the line-up (in which the surfing body shelters and inhabits) match their wave sense, strategy and tactics, to prey on the first wave of the set, as bread and butter pickings. flirting with drubbings that range from bearable to monumental mistakes, most experienced surfers understand the risks and the rewards, on these free rides that grommets cut their teeth on.
this is the second shot in a series of five taken within seconds of parking the car, checking the line-up and suiting up. it was as good as it looks, but on the improve of a lowering tide, it got better. i did not catch any first waves of the set, only bombs. i did take one particularly blatant and nasty drop-in (by an elder gentlemen) like samurai-poet, allowing said gentlemen to pleasure himself without my interference.
turning to the matter of barrels, they were twisitng, horeshoeing and on the right one, on the inside section, turning inside-out. on one such delight, my length of the bay high line, low line speed run (if you surfed there you will know what i am saying) was halted on the cusp of emerging from the reprise section, Angourie’s signature baseball bat finish. Oh to be flogged like that again, with an adrenalin charged body covered with a patagonian wettie lined with the finest merino wool.
my board 6’2″ four-fin felt like a knife through butter. this design allowing for the tightest of high lines and generous swooping arcs off the top both around and into the pit and fully fledged figure eight roundhouse cutties (backhand). its all bullshit I photo-shopped this, line-ups like this dont exist anymore
Satch, is that really living?
Photoshop? I’m shattered. For someone who dreams that in a parallel universe perfect lineups exist, the realisation that this one is simulated feels like yet another nauseous moment of abandonment.
Do you realise how incredible this is? There is only 6 surfers out? Its pumping. I missed it and so did alot of other surfers.
There are still days.
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