Cheers Cliffo. Would you believe I canned it today and having just looked at the cams see it’s come up a bit for the first time in weeks. I might have to burn some Browny Points. And yes Dererk is a Freak (in the nicest possible way)
So i just had dinner with Derek 20 minutes ago and a beer down at the Newtown duke. Strange place. The space was simply mundane for such a something larger then life. My head is full of everything that surfing is. Confirmed; you truly are a freek DH, and yes, in the nicest of possible ways.
Derek actually pursued this finless gig partly due to the fact that he was sick of surfing being so predictable. He genuinely wanted to feel what its was like to learn again and to feel a state of uncertainty. I cant wait to surf to that level. As toyota would say, oh what a feeling, then leap in the air.
Ahh Derek, what’s next now that you’ve pretty much aced the finless as well?
Woohoo.
Derek is a FREAK!
Cheers Cliffo. Would you believe I canned it today and having just looked at the cams see it’s come up a bit for the first time in weeks. I might have to burn some Browny Points. And yes Dererk is a Freak (in the nicest possible way)
So i just had dinner with Derek 20 minutes ago and a beer down at the Newtown duke. Strange place. The space was simply mundane for such a something larger then life. My head is full of everything that surfing is. Confirmed; you truly are a freek DH, and yes, in the nicest of possible ways.
Derek actually pursued this finless gig partly due to the fact that he was sick of surfing being so predictable. He genuinely wanted to feel what its was like to learn again and to feel a state of uncertainty. I cant wait to surf to that level. As toyota would say, oh what a feeling, then leap in the air.
Ahh Derek, what’s next now that you’ve pretty much aced the finless as well?
you