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Vol. 3 No. 2 out now!
- “Kurungabaa” means “pelican” in the Dharawal language. These people's country was colonised by Europeans. It is now called the Illawarra region and is located on the New South Wales coast, Australia. They continue to inspire as they struggle for their country and rights.
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Friends
Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples
Fuck yeah! I saw this a little while ago… How awesome is it?!
I did a bit of research and there’s a group of people on the net who’ve put up all the details on how to make one of these quadrocopters yourself. Seriously considering giving it a go.
http://uavp.ch/moin
(I always get excited about this kind of electronic stuff, and in the rare case that I do follow through with it, it rarely works… Don’t know if I’d be trusting my camera on a flying plaform that I made anyway!)
I surfed Broken Head every March from ’79 to ’92. Never more than 10 guys out, often alone during the work week. I assumed Lennox was done, but Broken?
What strikes me as boldly as the crowd was how well they surfed collectively.
I left Oz the last time knowing that change was coming fast and that my memories were better served not witnessing the change. The world is an enormous playground and I found new waves, but this video is a stark reminder that population density is a global threat. Sustainabiltiy may have reached the tipping point. Empty surfs have become the victim of mindless growth. Bali comes to mind. Malibu is already a dream.
Broken head is but one experiment proving that equation. An off broadway venue now affixed with massive neon light and who knows, a pay car park?
Beautiful photography captures the decay, masqueraded as performance and heralded as progress.
But progress into what? The Superbank?
RIP NSW.
Paid car parking is in full force now!!
Awesome wave, no wonder it’s crowded.
But I am so with you VOR. Paul Urlich was trying to open some real discussions about population control in the 60s, few listened. Dick Smith of all people is doing it again now, maybe now some more people will listen – somehow I doubt it.
“What is hateful to you, do not do to your fellow surfer.
Tha tis the the law; all the rest is commentary”
- Talmud, Sabat, 31A
(not Dada, don cut me daddy)
Do not be too disturbed. Broken Head = warm water and no consequence. The whole North Coast of NSW has been crowded for some time. There are still moments to be had, but mostly on the beachies and if you are prepared to ride different equipment and the lesser quality – which can be super fun too.
Do not despair!
There remains in Australia numerous waves with just a handful out, if you know where to look. These are places where consequence levies the line-up in terms of danger and’/or where a walk in is required and you have to know the conditions under which such places break well ie. where risk is part of the equation. We do not need population control. We do not need to solve any crowd tendency. Let it reign supreme as it concentrates participation at certain locales. There are numerous breaks that keep joy and surfing entwined. Now extrapolate this to a global scale.
The only reason, really, to complain is about one’s own willingness to sacrifice, chase, engage with more extreme elements (notice that any time there is size and cold it is rarely over-crowded), use imagination in terms of equipment, and shut up about where one has been surfing (when it is off the radar).
Personally, even I know of a wave that is a freight-train warm-water right that goes unridden day in day out. NB I will never reveal the location, even under pain of death. To date, I have told no-one. Even I forget about it sometimes. I will reveal for $500,000.01 USD though. Send cheque.
Also, I might add that even in Australia’s most populated city I find uncrowded surfing joy, sometimes. I just ditch the board and grab the fins and handplane and slide into a few shallow “unsurfable” slabs that dot this coastline.
The “decay” can be cauterised.
x the optimist
WTF That was a longer comment than I thought.
Short version:
“get off the beaten track, if you can”
My life has been off the track.
Somehow, the track has found my every covered footstep.
Indigenous populations were inevitable, but surf contests (RC) maimed a hidden gem and that infected an entire, pristine region. A secret I held for decades.
As I age, I’ve acquiesced to the decision of quality over quantity.
Clif suggests concession boards and “B” venues, the paradox of diminishing return.
Michelle, Broken Head used to be a step sister to the Pass and Lennox. Now, she’s Cinderella with perfect cinematography. A beautiful murder screened for a blood hungry audience. Another memory filed as “history”.
I’ve heard that Peter, but the term “equipment challenged” was coined during ’64.
One of the fun aspects of our debate over Fitz is that time was so fresh, everyone was on a different trip looking for the advantage.
Simon found the key and once my boards thinned out, they haven’t changed much since except for concaves replacing panel v.
Only diminshing return if you understand these experiences as lesser. They need not be.
I’ll search for my rose colored glasses Clif, I need them to weather inherent change.
You gotta admit PB, the transition to short was an exciting time and there was the advantage of empty quality to test drive every inspiration.
Just noticed that my schooner is half full, gotta go fill it up. Thanks CE.
Happy surf week boys…..
Beautiful, beautiful.
And there’s a crowd, big deal. As Clif pointed out, it’s a beautiful right point on the paradise of the north coast – why wouldn’t it be busy!! And it’s probably a Saturday morning. I still surf there on days when it is beautiful and clean and empty. Broken is not history.
The only thing that I resent taking over Broken is the Bitou Bush. You can see if from the water, strangling the trees and stripping the headland of its plants. Terrible.
It’s all about attitude. There are days at Bondi now when the crowd is at maximum but the vibe is great with smiles all round (this is usually because we are all gobsmacked it’s not closing for a change). Then there are other days where the mood is as black as our chic city wetsuits. I’m on Clif’s ride – it’s always possible to find what you need in the ocean. Ya just gotta open your eyes to the possibilities and they ARE endless.
Well said Thomas!
And I couldn’t agree more Bec…