You have to have the water love you
all surfers are saints and the youth of today are an example to all the ages.
Author Archive
The Indian Ocean ~ by sj Hewitt
i glimpse a flying oar an inverted hull legs and arms in air rolling tumbling towards me through charged white blue seas
An Interpretation of Icons and Symbols ~ by Ben Lacy
Unlike nearly all adventure (or contact) sports, surfing requires near nakedness to achieve success among the waves. The impact of this near nakedness courses throughout surf culture.
the grammar of everyday life ~ by kim satchell
banksy and surf graffiti
No Title ~ by Gary Crockett
hide the keys
suck on a ciggie
stereos buggered
sand in the speakers
go for a surf
Paranoia
This small man emerged from the shorey and jogged up he beach towards me, he’s in a bit of a hurry.
Hierarchy or Heist.. by Ben Lacy
One day Cain laid down and bought a stand up paddle (SUP) board. Some say that it was the years of being traumatized by overzealous paddlers in Hawaii that caused it, but I’m not sure. Maybe he just gave up hope, the kind that the old Brian Eno albums and a hammock in the living room couldn’t cure.
Why do we surf? A matter that ad campaigns won’t settle…..By Ben Lacy M.D.
Human beings are notoriously poor at determining the causal aspects of their own personal motivations, behaviors, likes, dislikes, etc. Any educated guess about our reasons for habitually surfing requires a broad understanding of psychological theories and concepts.
The Cane Toad’s Equivalent – An interlude
How cane toads destroyed Australia and everything came to shit
with apologies to just about everyone ..
by petebowesI cannot believe he said that ..