Author Archive

Separation

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“He has been living in terror; but now it gives way to smooth, dull shores of sadness. Terror is mobile, sadness stagnant. Like water in a vase…” *

Kirra 1975 and a minute ago

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Peter Drouyn surfing in the green boardies, and also Keith Paull when he owned Harmony Surfshop – Kirra Point in 1975/1976  (spoiler alert – real film effects) Josh Kerr gets two long deep… Read More

Topsail

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The summer before Jennifer died we spent a week at the ocean with her family. At this point Jen had been using a walker for a few months because the cancer had spread… Read More

Tearing

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yes, it is a promo (sponsorspoiler alert) that said, watchout world

A suspended blue ocean

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The sky is a suspended blue ocean. The stars are the fish that swim. The planets are the white whales I sometimes hitch a ride on. And the sun and all light have… Read More

All the rowboats

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All the rowboats In the paintings They keep trying to row away And the captains’ worried faces Stay contorted and staring at the waves They’ll keep hanging In their gold frames For forever… Read More

Woodz

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Alaia – defn: a thin, round nosed, square tailed surfboard, ridden in pre-20thC Hawaii. Other meanings: joyful or happy This clip made me smile, some wild rides about two and half minutes in,… Read More

nothing but flogging

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  (sponsorspoiler) 2do campeonato de tow in en Chilca presentado por Oneill From Chilca, where UFOs are said to land…

board to air to bodysurfing

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check the second wave at about 30secs for the transition – would like to see more of this out in the packs

In life raft somewhere

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